Pakse seemed to be a bit of a ghost town the infrastructure was set up for huge amounts of tourists yet none were about. Just me and the rest of the crew minus a couple we are now only 6 strong. Arabica coffee is huge in this town and the surrounding villages and i was amazed at the many brand new Lexus SUV's running around town. In fact i distinctly remember thinking holy crap i cannot even here that car although it is in motion. hehehe. Thailand and Laos must truly be home to some of the loudest cars on the planet. It was like finding watching a thunderstorm with no sound.
Not much to do in the town except hop in for an hour tuk tuk ride out into the mountains and check out a couple waterfalls. All the way out to the destination fields of green coffee bean plants greeted me and my compadres. In several place large concrete expanses were strewn with coffee beans drying in the hot sun. I had such a surreal feeling on the entire ride out unsure of what to expect all the while being inundated by the fragrance of flowers, cute children, and the mountain like roar that was in fact our engine. It must have been the low season and no one i mean no one was at this first sight of beauty. The falls were maybe 25 ft wide and loomed commandingly into the air. Water was spilling over the falls at such a speed and high volume that 5 meters from the base you felt like you were in a stationary training pool. Mist was everywhere and the water seemed pure. After a quick dip and some snaps we were off to the tallest waterfall in all of Laos. Now this puppy was massive. 100 meters or something crazy like that. I could not get that close just a ridge view from the top of the other side of a massive gorge. Behind the falls the land continued almost perfectly flat as far as the eye could detect. Almost like a freshly mowed lawn the trees only grew to a seemingly predetermined height and then stopped creating a very awesome visual effect.
Nocturnal Octagon or the group from the slow boat re-united in 4,000 islands. Other than being crazily hot it was quite a network of these tiny little land masses strewn about different fingers of a river. No electricity except from 6 to 11 or so at night was neat. Only the river supplied relief from the heat. An early exit took the crew toward Siem Reap while Seth and I stayed behind got bikes and explored the island. Plus another attached by a bride. At the end of our heat filled journey was a longtail boat out to some rock in the middle of a joining body of water created by all the different rivers. You could say lake, but very small scale. Unfortunately it was big enough that our only sighting of freshwater PINK dolphins was done at a distance.
Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Laos. Show all posts
Thursday, April 19, 2007
Sunday, March 25, 2007
Lay Back into Laos
Since my last report from Chang Mai my new travel companion and I have moved north through Thailand up to Chang Rai and then over into Chang Khong. Both places had a less than touristy feel and people seemed to have our best interests at hand. It was a great way to end the last part of my journey in Thailand. Even with the inversion and all the smoke from the slash and burn style of crop production here in Laos we enjoyed the extent of our views and bus rides through the country side.
Bright and early and with weary confusion we made our way across the Mekong river from Chang Khong, Thailand into Laos. After boarding the 40 odd foot long boat complete with wooden benches with a sit up straight attitude and leg room for a tiny elf we began to notice that the boat was not only approaching capacity, but also exceeding it at a rapid pace. All of a sudden a boat of similar characteristics next to us began shuffling miscellaneous objects around and people literally started jumping ship to get some space on the new boat. Believe it or not i was one of them! With plastic chairs and leg room we rejoiced in our decision. Now six hours on a boat is a long time in general, but on the Mekong it is a really long time. This would be our fate for the next two days. Our stop over, half way to Luang Pragbong, was a bit hectic with the baggage situation, but we got a good night sleep for another repeat day. The water is quite low at the moment and people living in remote villages could be seen gathering green mossy stuff off the rocks in the river, clams, and fishes. Mountains rose and fell along the way and granite faces dotted sandy shores. Navigating rocks and even a few rapids our 7 hour day landed us in Luang Prabong with a sore ass and a few new friends.
Just a short stroll through the town after dropping our packs and we could tell that the vibe was not quite like we expected. I am talking upscale accommodation, food, and designer clothing stores. Monks a plenty walked purposefully everywhere and actually dominated an Internet shop across from a temple near our Guesthouse. Streets remain uncrowded almost all day with the mad rush coming from kids on bikes once school was out. In true form our crew from the boat met at a pub to celebrate Saint Patric's day. Our boat actually filled the entire bar and once it closed around 12 the 5 or so Irish in the group were not done partying. So we all joined forces and made our way by tuk tuk to the nearest bowling alley... You read this entry right...Bowling Alley! Settled out of town a ways and in the middle of a dirt field we arrived at a fully modernized alley complete with a giant rubber chicken that flashed on the overhead TV, informing you that indeed you did miss all of the pins. I mean this never really happened to me :), but um i know people it did happen to. Needless to say we were all shocked and could not stop laughing about the strange anomaly. Everyone had a blast and St. Patty would be proud. Up early to the sound of monks beating drums, symbols, and chanting in the Wat behind our guesthouse our solid crew of 7 got underway to a local waterfall. Unannounced to us the ride took 40 mins or so and in the back of a tuk tuk on alternating road conditions proved quite long. We reaped the benefits when we discovered not only bear rehabilitation center, but a Bahgera! Who was at about arms length behind a chain link fence. Close encounter indeed! Only in South East Asia. The jungle was lush and we arrived at a pristine pool of aqua blue water being fed by a nice 10 foot by 15 foot waterfall. Serenity, i think so. With only a handful of people around i could hardly get my big toe into the water fast enough. Fresh cold pure water welcomed my body with a friendly zing and some long awaited goose bumps. As i lay floating on my back staring up into the canopy of the trees i felt at peace. Finally i was back in my element...water! We hiked up the trail all the way to the source, stooping at each level of course. Without inversion the view would have been amazing instead it was great. Now refreshed and revitalized we moved back to town luckily for us we got a flat in our 2 outta four of our tires on the way back to town and had to sit around for about an hour for a spare. Between the 2 tuk tuk's only one had a spare while the other carried a spare flat. Not so use full when it comes to needing a new tire :) Back on the road felt like we were gonna loose a gearbox on a decently graded hill, but somehow we made it home.
With a special street market going on we decided to meet and eat on the street and head again to our favorite place in town. The bowling alley. Its so nice to enjoy some of the comforts of home along the way and there really has been no better way since arriving here in SEA. Another night of erect pins and excess fun we prepared ourselves for an overnight trip in a mini bus. Destination: Vang Vien
Up through mountains down through valleys we passed many hill tribes and Lao people shuffling and bustling doing various daily tasks. Scenery filled all the windows of the bus and you could feel the contentment in the air. Arriving at night we check our riverside elevated bamboo bungalows for spiders and snakes and moved in. All 8 of us had bungalows within throwing of each other. The town was hustling and bustling with locals and our day of stay extended into about 5. At 3 dollars each a night it was quite an attractive location. One night awoken by screams the girls next door wanted me to come wrangle a mouse for them. Unfortunately for them i left my Wrangler shirt was dirty and i politely shouted them the sad news. We spent two days floating the river, which during low season can be cause for quite a sore butt. Bars dot the banks and real people in with zip lines and giant rope swings the likes of which i had never been witness. Oh yes I got on those baby's and it was quite a thrill let me tell you! Nights were quiet due to our semi removed location to the town center, but fun none the less. Oh by the way the pace here is slow way slow. Like really really slow.
Skipping through Vientiane our now 7 person crew has arrived in Pakse after a 16 hour adventure. Headed south in a couple and will keep y'all posted!
Happy, Healthy, and Hot i send my love to you all and hope all is well on the home front.
I would like to thank everyone for all they have done for my good friend JM and ask you to please continue to keep my good friend JM in your thoughts and prayers so her recovery can be quick and full!
Christopher
Bright and early and with weary confusion we made our way across the Mekong river from Chang Khong, Thailand into Laos. After boarding the 40 odd foot long boat complete with wooden benches with a sit up straight attitude and leg room for a tiny elf we began to notice that the boat was not only approaching capacity, but also exceeding it at a rapid pace. All of a sudden a boat of similar characteristics next to us began shuffling miscellaneous objects around and people literally started jumping ship to get some space on the new boat. Believe it or not i was one of them! With plastic chairs and leg room we rejoiced in our decision. Now six hours on a boat is a long time in general, but on the Mekong it is a really long time. This would be our fate for the next two days. Our stop over, half way to Luang Pragbong, was a bit hectic with the baggage situation, but we got a good night sleep for another repeat day. The water is quite low at the moment and people living in remote villages could be seen gathering green mossy stuff off the rocks in the river, clams, and fishes. Mountains rose and fell along the way and granite faces dotted sandy shores. Navigating rocks and even a few rapids our 7 hour day landed us in Luang Prabong with a sore ass and a few new friends.
Just a short stroll through the town after dropping our packs and we could tell that the vibe was not quite like we expected. I am talking upscale accommodation, food, and designer clothing stores. Monks a plenty walked purposefully everywhere and actually dominated an Internet shop across from a temple near our Guesthouse. Streets remain uncrowded almost all day with the mad rush coming from kids on bikes once school was out. In true form our crew from the boat met at a pub to celebrate Saint Patric's day. Our boat actually filled the entire bar and once it closed around 12 the 5 or so Irish in the group were not done partying. So we all joined forces and made our way by tuk tuk to the nearest bowling alley... You read this entry right...Bowling Alley! Settled out of town a ways and in the middle of a dirt field we arrived at a fully modernized alley complete with a giant rubber chicken that flashed on the overhead TV, informing you that indeed you did miss all of the pins. I mean this never really happened to me :), but um i know people it did happen to. Needless to say we were all shocked and could not stop laughing about the strange anomaly. Everyone had a blast and St. Patty would be proud. Up early to the sound of monks beating drums, symbols, and chanting in the Wat behind our guesthouse our solid crew of 7 got underway to a local waterfall. Unannounced to us the ride took 40 mins or so and in the back of a tuk tuk on alternating road conditions proved quite long. We reaped the benefits when we discovered not only bear rehabilitation center, but a Bahgera! Who was at about arms length behind a chain link fence. Close encounter indeed! Only in South East Asia. The jungle was lush and we arrived at a pristine pool of aqua blue water being fed by a nice 10 foot by 15 foot waterfall. Serenity, i think so. With only a handful of people around i could hardly get my big toe into the water fast enough. Fresh cold pure water welcomed my body with a friendly zing and some long awaited goose bumps. As i lay floating on my back staring up into the canopy of the trees i felt at peace. Finally i was back in my element...water! We hiked up the trail all the way to the source, stooping at each level of course. Without inversion the view would have been amazing instead it was great. Now refreshed and revitalized we moved back to town luckily for us we got a flat in our 2 outta four of our tires on the way back to town and had to sit around for about an hour for a spare. Between the 2 tuk tuk's only one had a spare while the other carried a spare flat. Not so use full when it comes to needing a new tire :) Back on the road felt like we were gonna loose a gearbox on a decently graded hill, but somehow we made it home.
With a special street market going on we decided to meet and eat on the street and head again to our favorite place in town. The bowling alley. Its so nice to enjoy some of the comforts of home along the way and there really has been no better way since arriving here in SEA. Another night of erect pins and excess fun we prepared ourselves for an overnight trip in a mini bus. Destination: Vang Vien
Up through mountains down through valleys we passed many hill tribes and Lao people shuffling and bustling doing various daily tasks. Scenery filled all the windows of the bus and you could feel the contentment in the air. Arriving at night we check our riverside elevated bamboo bungalows for spiders and snakes and moved in. All 8 of us had bungalows within throwing of each other. The town was hustling and bustling with locals and our day of stay extended into about 5. At 3 dollars each a night it was quite an attractive location. One night awoken by screams the girls next door wanted me to come wrangle a mouse for them. Unfortunately for them i left my Wrangler shirt was dirty and i politely shouted them the sad news. We spent two days floating the river, which during low season can be cause for quite a sore butt. Bars dot the banks and real people in with zip lines and giant rope swings the likes of which i had never been witness. Oh yes I got on those baby's and it was quite a thrill let me tell you! Nights were quiet due to our semi removed location to the town center, but fun none the less. Oh by the way the pace here is slow way slow. Like really really slow.
Skipping through Vientiane our now 7 person crew has arrived in Pakse after a 16 hour adventure. Headed south in a couple and will keep y'all posted!
Happy, Healthy, and Hot i send my love to you all and hope all is well on the home front.
I would like to thank everyone for all they have done for my good friend JM and ask you to please continue to keep my good friend JM in your thoughts and prayers so her recovery can be quick and full!
Christopher
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